It’s no secret that dress watches have made a massive resurgence, but now we have even further proof.

Chrono24, the online platform for pre-owned watches, just released its 2025 Market Recap, with the findings illustrating collectors are eschewing sports watches in favor of more elegant timepieces. 

The report, based on data from millions of transactions conducted on the Chrono24 website, shows a clear preference for refinement over ruggedness. The demand for rectangular cases increased by 9.3 percent compared to 2024, indicating that horophiles are finally moving away from the ubiquitous round case. Striking faces surged in popularity: Green (9.5 percent), champagne (7.9 percent), and gold dials (6.5 percent) were all up from last year, while blue and black dials remained flat. The moon phase experienced a 15.3 percent boom, underscoring a desire for movements that make a statement. All of that suggests a desire for aesthetics, not just mechanics.

The decisive shift in taste is also reflected in the penchant for a certain Parisian jeweler. Cartier experienced 8.3 percent year-over-year growth, thanks to continued demand for classic Santos and Tank models. 

Vacheron Constantin also had an impressive year, outperforming “Holy Trinity” rivals Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet with a 13.4 percent growth in market share. Similarly, IWC recorded a 14.4 percent increase fueled by the Pilot (10 percent) and Ingenieur (91 percent) lines. 

By contrast, Rolex’s market share dipped by 3.3 percent. The Swiss watchmaker remains the undeniable leader by volume, but notched slightly fewer sales in 2025. That indicates the frantic Rolex flipping of previous years may have cooled.  

“The numbers tell a clear story: The ‘tourist investor’ has left, and the ‘true collector’ is back in charge,” Balazs Ferenczi, head of brand engagement at Chrono24, said in a statement. “We see this in the data—a 13 percent jump for Vacheron or a 9 percent rise in rectangular watches happens because enthusiasts are refining their tastes, not chasing quick flips.” 

The secondary market remained relatively stable amid geopolitical instability, according to Chrono24. The U.S. was the strongest region globally, with average transaction prices in the States climbing by 8.43 percent in Q4.

As for 2026, Chrono24 expects collectors will be on the hunt for smaller, more wearable timepieces and vintage watches with a twist. Think bold colors and unusual materials. Sounds like it’s going to be a fun year.