While researching inspiration for his latest jewelry creations, Fernando Jorge was struck by an image of a kalabubu, a bold collar worn by warriors from Indonesia’s Nias people that is traditionally made from coconut shell and brass. Its impact was immediate. “The power of the necklace came from the raw material, the scale, the sculptural simplicity,” says the Brazilian-born, London-based designer. That idea of elemental strength informs Deep Vertex, a collection that emblematizes Jorge’s creative approach.

The jeweler is best known for instilling his fluid gold and diamond pieces with sensuality and movement. Yet he has never been content to stick to a single aesthetic. His work consistently explores new materials, techniques, and structural ideas. Deep Vertex is his next design chapter. The streamlined geometry departs from his usual curves yet retains the same concept of motion. “My signature is flexibility,” he explains, “using repetition and graduation to make sure pieces interact with the body in a sensual, effortless way.”

The collection introduces unexpected fusions: matte ebony with shiny onyx, red carved Brazilian bloodwood matched with glossy red carnelian. These tonal pairings are arranged in precise, symmetrical patterns, with clean lines of baguette-cut diamonds. But it’s also a study in contrast and texture. “It echoes the geometry of Art Deco combined with the sense of power from African and Egyptian tribal pieces,” Jorge says. The result is jewelry that feels both ancient and modern, pared back yet commanding.

By juxtaposing humble materials like wood and tagua-nut shell with diamonds and gemstones, the line also questions conventional notions of what’s truly precious. The answer lies not just in substance but in intention, craftsmanship, and emotional significance. This philosophy mirrors Jorge’s personal sensibility.

The soft-spoken, boyish 46-year-old established his business in 2011. He gravitates toward natural elements, particularly from his native Brazil. The challenge with Deep Vertex, he says, was elevating them into statement pieces without sacrificing minimalism and subtlety. “It shows that luxury and beauty don’t need to be loud.”

Not that Jorge is afraid to turn up the volume. His earlier Vertex collection, which arranges rows of baguette-cut diamonds in similar architectural forms as the Deep Vertex line, gives more emphasis to the stones. But both play with a little breathing room between the gems, giving these designs a distinct sense of modernism and lightness. Together, both iterations underscore Jorge’s evolution as a designer who is unafraid to strip back ornamentation—and let form, material, and meaning speak for themselves.

Top: Fernando Jorge Deep Vertex Tambour earrings in 18-karat yellow gold, green jasper, and baguette-cut diamonds