Welcome to Taste Test, where every week our critic Jonah Flicker explores the most buzzworthy and interesting whiskeys in the world. Check back each Sunday for his latest whiskey review.

Do you love sherry bombs? Or to put it another way—are you a sucker for single malt scotch that has been entirely matured in casks that were previously used to age sherry, like whiskies from the Macallan or the Glendronach? If so, have I got a bottle for you—the new Tamdhu 21 Year Old, the oldest whisky to join this distillery’s core lineup (and the first of this age), and one that will satisfy every sherry-loving cell in your body.

Perhaps you are not familiar with Tamdhu, and if that’s the case you are surely not alone. The distillery doesn’t have as much name recognition as the ones mentioned before, but it deserves to because the whisky is fantastic, from the entry-level 12-year-old all the way up to the limited-edition 43-year-old. This new release splits the difference as far as age is concerned, and that’s a good thing because it falls right into that sweet spot of maturation where notes of oak and tropical fruit start to creep in but not dominate.

Tamdhu was founded in 1897, but like many other distilleries it had some periods of dormancy in the mid-20th century. Edrington, which owns the Macallan, was the last company to run the distillery, but it was shuttered and sold to Ian MacLeod Distillers in 2011 and production resumed again a few years later. Given that timeline, the older expressions were obviously produced well before that sale, including this new 21-year-old. And while previous distillery owners used a variety of casks to mature the whisky, Ian MacLeod decided to focus solely on sherry butts. This new single malt was aged entirely in European and American oak sherry casks, or more accurately sherry-seasoned casks that were sourced from bodegas in Spain.

Maybe you’ve never really given sherry cask-matured whisky a chance before, or perhaps that’s all you drink. Either way, you should go out and find this bottle (if you’re willing to splurge a bit). The palate is rich, decadent, and vibrant despite its slightly elevated age. Dried fruit notes immediately jump out as you sip, as you might expect, along with a range of flavors like baking spice, caramel, and milk and dark chocolate. There are even some savory notes that pop, like sweet and sour barbecue and a bit of umami soy sauce, but these are evened out by sweeter and spicier flavors like vanilla, black pepper, and honey. The whisky is bottled at 47.5 percent ABV and is non-chill filtered with no color added.

Tamdhu 21 is just four years younger than the Macallan 25, but the former costs $400 while the latter often sells for about three grand. And, I would argue, Tamdhu 21 is just as good, if not better (although let’s be real, Macallan 25 is pretty, pretty great). The point is that you should go and drink whatever whisky you want, and spend however much you want on that whisky. But if you’re looking for a relative bargain that also happens to be a certified sherry bomb banger, give Tamdhu 21 a try.

Score: 96