Generally speaking, bourbon is not smoky. That’s a style that’s relegated mostly to scotch whisky (although, despite what many people believe, only a small proportion of scotch is actually smoky). Still, rules are meant to be broken… as long as the actual rules that define bourbon are not broken. Such is the case with Bulleit’s new Mesquite Smoked Malt bourbon, a savory, smoky whiskey that gets its unique flavor from mesquite-smoked malted barley.

This new release is still defined as a Kentucky straight bourbon, meaning it’s made from a mashbill of at least 51 percent corn, aged in new charred oak barrels (technically these have to be “containers”) for a minimum of two years, and meets the distillation and entry proof requirements. And to be clear, this is not a flavored whiskey, but a bourbon made from a unique mashbill that gives it its flavor: 65 percent corn, 30 percent mesquite-smoked malt, and 5 percent malted barley.

Typically, Bulleit Bourbon, which is owned by drinks giant Diageo, is made from a high-rye mashbill, but as you can see from the mashbill there is no rye to be found in this whiskey. “It’s important to note that while this release is a first-of-its-kind spirit for the brand, it is not a flavored whiskey,” said Phil Gelineau, whiskey R&D manager at Bulleit, in a statement. “The subtle smokiness comes from the mesquite wood-smoked malt used in the mashbill. As it has aged, those notes have rounded into something richer and more complex, with layers of brown sugar, caramel, and real depth of body. The mesquite character lingers on top, giving it a smooth yet distinctive smoky finish.”

The mesquite comes into play during the malting process, similarly to how peat is used to make smoky scotches on Islay or other regions. To stop the malting, the barley was heated and dried by burning mesquite wood, infusing it with a savory, almost barbecue-like smokiness as opposed to the campfire and iodine notes associated with peat. Bulleit provided an unusually precise level of detail about the bourbon’s production: it was distilled in November of 2018 at Bulleit Distilling Co. in Shelbyville, Ken., and aged for minimum of six years before being bottled last fall at 93 proof. And, according to the brand, this is part of an ongoing project that will explore “unique grains, experiences, and aging techniques” in whiskey.

We got to try a sample, and Gelineau’s description is pretty accurate, with the mesquite taking front and center along with notes of ripe fruit, vanilla custard, roasted espresso, and burnt toffee. This bourbon is not going to be for everybody. In fact, there are likely to be some detractors, but if nothing else it’s interesting to see a big brand take a chance by releasing something that is out of the ordinary. That being said, it’s also not unprecedented. Other brands that have dabbled in mesquite are Wild Turkey Longbranch and Old Forester King Ranch Edition, both of which are filtered through mesquite charcoal. As far as actually smoking grain with mesquite, Warbringer and Santa Fe Spirits have both released whiskeys that have undergone this step.

Bulleit Bourbon Mesquite Smoked Malt is available now (SRP $50) at retailers around the country and at websites like Total Wine.