Welcome to Taste Test, where every week our critic Jonah Flicker explores the most buzzworthy and interesting whiskeys in the world. Check back each Sunday for his latest whiskey review.

Ask a group of whiskey drinkers what their favorite bourbon is, and at least a few will certainly mention Woodford Reserve. This Brown-Forman-owned distillery is beloved by many for the quality of its core expressions, not to mention the cask-finished Double Oaked (and Double Doubled Oaked) versions of the bourbon. But it also has some more experimental, limited-release expressions in the lineup, including a new bourbon finished in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels—a first for the distillery, and a very successful secondary maturation.

Master distiller emeritus Chris Morris has said that his favorite cask-finished Woodford release was the Sonoma-Cutrer Chardonnay finish from 2007; master distiller Elizabeth McCall, on the other hand, has gone on record saying that she prefers the Pinot Noir finish from 2014. Both of those were limited editions that came out as part of the distillery’s Master’s Collection, a series that is built around changing up various production aspects like cask type, finish, mashbill, fermentation, and maturation location. The new Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Finish, which as mentioned before is a first for the distillery, is part of the Distillery Series, an experimental line that has included other whiskeys like the Tawny Port Finish, Chocolate Whisper Redux, Blended Malt, and Toasted Bourbon.

This new expression starts out as regular Woodford bourbon, which is aged for about six to seven years in new charred oak barrels (as required by law for bourbon). Then the whiskey was put into Cabernet Sauvignon barrels for an additional year (the sourced was not disclosed, but Brown-Forman sold Sonoma-Cutrer a few years ago which might be why the winery is not mentioned here). I don’t always love cask-finished bourbon, except when I really do. And I really don’t always love wine cask-finished bourbon in particular, but this release knocks it out of the park.

The core Woodford character is still present, with recognizable notes of classic flavors like vanilla, maple, oak, and cinnamon. But 12 months in Cabernet Sauvignon wine barrels have transformed this bourbon in some really nice ways. The color is now a reddish-brown, and the palate pops with big notes of fresh berries, candied cherry, dried fig, black pepper, and a slightly tannic tinge. That last part is where things can really go overboard with a wine cask finish, but that’s not the case here at all. The whiskey is bottled at 90.4 proof, the same as the core bourbon, which feels just right—not too hot, and definitely not watered down.

The only hitch is that the Distillery Series is being released in limited numbers, initially available at the distillery itself in 375-ml bottles (SRP $65—shipping available to some states) and select Kentucky retailers. Look around and you might be able to score a bottle on the secondary market, or find a decently-priced pour at a good whiskey bar. And if you do come across this new Woodford bourbon, don’t hesitate to give it a try.

Score: 93